WINE
PINOT KNOW-ALL
BY LINDSEY WHIPPLE
The greatest way to exasperate a wine sommelier or steward these days is to ask if they loved the movie Sideways. Sommeliers and wine stewards are barraged with this question daily thanks to the Alexander Payne film. “Where is the Santa Barbara Pinot Noir on your wine list?” hopeful connoisseurs are certain to inquire.
The movie is Oscar worthy, as well as the grape varietal. Now, United States wine lovers have finally become aware of a grape varietal that far surpasses Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon — Pinot Noir.
The best corner of the world Pinot Noir is made and grown is where it is indigenous, Burgundy, France. The wines from the classic 2002 vintage are receiving great reviews. The Pinot Noirs are supple and rich in fruit with great acidity. The excellent structure of the 2002 vintage are ideal for aging. Cote de Nuit’s Red Burgundy wines from the towns of Gevery-Chambertin, Nuits-Saint-Georges and Chambolle-Musigny are a recommended investment from the great 2002 Burgundy vintage.
Oregon Pinot Noir also did well in 2002. The 2002 vintage has made it possible to pick most Oregon Pinot Noir from the shelf without hesitation. This has never been the case for Oregon Pinot Noir. The wine industry in Oregon has become more established, and consequently the future for more impressive vintages is promising. The 2002 vintage in Oregon has produced juicy cherry and berry fruit flavors in its Pinot Noir. The Willamette Valley wine region has had the most success with the 2002 vintage, especially, in its Red Hills of Dundee.
Although New Zealand is known for its white wine, its third most planted grape varietal is Pinot Noir. New Zealand’s Pinot Noir — in comparison to the rest of the world — lies between Burgundy and Oregon, hence, creating its own originality. The new 2001 and 2002 vintages of New Zealand Pinot Noir have shown the world that Pinot Noir is a great region to grow the finicky varietal.
The 2001 vintage had light fruit notes with a well-balanced acidity. The 2002 vintage was a more fruit driven vintage.
Both the 2001 and 2002 Pinot Noir vintages were outstanding for the South Island’s Central Otago and Martinborough wine regions. Overall, New Zealand’s Pinot Noirs are zesty and juicy.
Pinot Noir also grows in obscure areas of Italy and Germany where vintage has no significance with the varietal. Pinot Noir in Germany is called Spatburgunder. The best wines made from Spatburgunder are from the regions of Ahr, in Baden, and in the Rheingau. The cold climate of Germany produces Spatburgunder wines that are light in style. Spatburgunder also makes a delicious and luscious dessert wine.
Pinot Noir in Italy is called Pinot Nero. Descent Pinot Nero wines come from Tuscany and Alto Adige wine regions. There are limited plantings of Pinot Nero in Italy, and it is difficult to find a good quality Pint Nero wine. Pinot Nero is interesting, fun and something out of the ordinary.
It is amazing how one movie can change the economy of an industry. The United States wine lovers palates have changed, and it will be exciting to see if the demand for Pinot Noir persists. LW