WINE
AUSTRIA, NOT AUSTRALIA
BY LINDSEY WHIPPLE

There’s no need to throw another shrimp on the barbie because we no longer need to play dumb and dumber when it comes to the white and red wines of Austria. Yes, Austria, not Australia.

Austria produces world-class dry white wines from Riesling, Gruner Veltliner as well as unique red wines. 

The last of the great European white wine grape varietals, Gruner Veltliner, flourishes as Austria’s top produced grape variety. Gruner Veltliner wines are versatile white wines, which can be as smooth as the great American plains or as massive as the great Colorado Rockies. Having said this, Gruner Veltliner is a white wine that will partner with most foods. Gruner Veltliner has a hedge flower aroma with a spicy green taste in the mouth similar to dry white wines from Friuli, Italy or Alsace, France.

Riesling on the other hand yields the greatest dry white wines in Austria, with Gruner Veltliner coming in a close second. Riesling flocks instinctively to Austria’s rare volcanic soil and continental climate like the salmon of Capistrano. Riesling from Austria is singular and sexy, unlike neighboring German Rieslings, which are more mysterious. Austrian Riesling has a strong mineralistic characteristic, reflective of Austria’s soil in taste, and an aroma of tropical fruit with hints of honey and blossoms. 

The leading Austrian wine producers Nigl and Hirsch from the Kremstal and Kamptal wine regions, and Alzinger and Nikolaihof from the Wachau wine region in Austria, produce outstanding Gruner Veltliner and Riesling wines.

Currently, there is a one-in-a-million chance that any wine producer in Austria will have any luck at producing a decent red wine. Great red wines from Austria are hard to come by, but there still is a chance with Austria’s native cabernet type red grape varietal Blaufrankisch, which produces tart fruity wines with good tannin and hints of cherries and spice. Blaufrankisch has a promising future for better red-wine production in Austria. Other unusual and unique red wines from Austria are Sankt Laurent like a Pinot Noir and Zweigelt similar to a Syrah. LW

DINING
LOTUS OF SIAM STILL ON FIRE
BY LINDSEY WHIPPLE

In the October 2000 issue of Gourmet magazine, Chef’s Saipin and Suchay Chutima’s Issan-style Thai food restaurant, Lotus of Siam, was deemed, “the best Thai restaurant in the United States.” It is safe to say today that Lotus of Siam is continuing this same trend. 

Approaching the tiny restaurant in the seedy Sahara strip mall, one would be skeptical to Lotus’ authenticity. Immediately walking inside the restaurant, it is a relief to see all the framed copies of the restaurant’s successes, as well as many framed photos of friends and family. The interior of Lotus of Siam is plain, but the friendly atmosphere makes anyone feel part of something special and real.

Traditionally, the Issan-style Thai cuisine at Lotus is spicier than other regions of Thailand. The menu lists 131 different dishes that can be ordered from a spice level of one to 10. For those who want real Thai spice, inform the waiter that you would like to leave crying. 

Start with the classic Thai soup Tom Kah Kai. Tom Kah Kai is a coconut-infused spicy soup with chicken, galangal and lemon grass served in a cup or in a hot pot. The Nua Dad Deaw appetizer otherwise known as “beef jerky Issan style” is a favorite spicy finger food occupied by a savory sauce that cannot be missed.

Main courses include the Panang Curry, another coconut-flavored dish; pad Thai, a combination of rice noodles, chicken, egg and scallions; and a deep-fried Pompano Fish. The entire meal is, of course, occupied by sticky rice.

Fortunately, the only way to put out the fire of Lotus’ spicy food is with one of their great German Rieslings. German Rieslings are the perfect antidote for spicy food due to their sweetness levels. Lotus of Siam has the best German Riesling wine list in town, including German wines such as Zilliken and Diel. It is suggested to make a selection from their wine list to truly enjoy the experience. Do not believe a simple glass of water will do the trick, or you will be leaving the Lotus of Siam in tears. 

Dessert can also extinguish the flame, as will milk and some coconut ice cream with sticky rice.

Service throughout the meal is efficient, but a tiny bit slow. However, it is refreshing to know that at Lotus of Siam, food will always be served with a smile, no matter how long the food takes to get to the table. 

Lotus of Siam is located at 953 E. Sahara Ave, #A-5. Lotus is open for Lunch Monday-Friday from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Dinner 5:30 to 9:00 p.m daily. Call and make reservations at 735-3033. LW