THE ISSUES


August 2008



July 2008





April 2008



Volume 3 Archive



Volume 2 Archive



Volume 1 Archive

 


WINE
PRETTY IN PINK
BY LINDSEY WHIPPLE

White Zinfandel has the same believability as a clear Pepsi. How can the oxymorons White Zinfandel, White Merlot and even White Cabernet exist in wine culture? What exactly is this pink wine?

Rose wine is made from red grape varietals, pouring the juice over the skins from a few hours to a few days, leaving a juice with a light pink salmon to a deep rose color. The juice is then vinified into wine similar to the process of white wine production. Rose wines are fresh, fruity, dry or sweet, and are best consumed young.

White Zinfandel was a name created in 1972 by Bob Trinchero for his sweet rose wines made form red zinfandel grapes, which enabled him to make his Amador Red Zinfandel more concentrated. It was originally called "Oeil de Pedrix" (eye of the partridge), but the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms told Bob there had to be an English translation on the label.

By, 1987 White Zinfandel was the single most popular premium wine in the U.S., influencing other Californian growers to produce Roses as well.

Today, Sutter Home produces 3 million cases of White Zinfandel a year. Fifty-two percent of the Rose market share in the UK is Californian. French, Portuguese, South African, Spanish and Argentinean Roses have benefited from the popularity of the American White Zinfandel by the demand for more roses.

The Ojai Vineyard Rose 2004 from Central Coast California is made from Syrah and Pinot Noir producing a sparkly salmon copper colored wine with luscious cinnamon, orange peel and dominant cranberry characteristics in the taste and aroma.

Domaine Ott Rose Costes De Provence 2001 from Southern France has a brilliant sunset color with light crisp orange and strawberry notes in aroma and taste.

Crios de Susana, Rose of Malbec, 2004 from Mendoza, Argentina has deep vibrant pink color with with ripe wild strawberries in aroma and a fresh spicy dryness in taste.

Wine lovers of the world have dubbed White Zinfandel as the Pepsi cola of the wine world, just not the real thing. It is important to understand that White Zinfandel has created a new Rose wine taster in the world, and is beginning to rise above its own stereotype. LW




DINING
MESA GRILL: CHARMING, SUCCULENT, FILLING
BY LINDSEY WHIPPLE

Acclaimed Chef Bobby Flay has brought his vibrant southwestern barbeque cuisine and celebrity name to the Caesars Palace hotel-casino's bright neon lights. Bobby Flay is known from such Food Network televisions shows as "Boy Meets Grill," "BBQ with 

Bobby Flay," and "Hot Off the Grill with Bobby Flay." Flay also has a Mesa Grill restaurant in New York City, and has published an array of cookbooks.

Flay's southwestern cuisine is set in a perfect restaurant ambiance for the city of sin. Designed by David Rockwell, Mesa Grill has the effect of stepping into the fire and brimstone of hell. Mesa Grill seats 190 in its three-tier dining room, and has a 20-foot rotisserie with a grill and quesadilla oven churning above the flamed and exciting atmosphere.

The lively attitude of the casino, tourists and theme of Mesa Grill created an obvious sense of urgency amongst the staff. The entire staff was attentive and polite. Upon entering Mesa Grill, the hostess' charm and staff service was well-rehearsed.

Starters were Tiger shrimp and roasted-garlic corn tamale with corn-cilantro sauce, cotija-crusted quesadilla with wild mushrooms, cascabel chilies and white bean-white truffle hummus, and spicy tuna tartar with blistered serrano hot sauce and avocado relish. Warning: the appetizers are filling. They would be perfect for a quick bite accompanied with a few margaritas.

The entrees rely on a selection of heavy succulent barbeque creations such as aged buffalo rib-eye with mustard-habanero barbecue sauce and cayenne-sour cream onion rings, ancho chili-cumin-rubbed pan-roasted rabbit with yellow tomato-green onion risotto, 16-spice rotisserie chicken with caramelized mango sauce and buttermilk-chive mashed potatoes, and a coffee spice-rubbed rotisserie filet mignon with wild mushroom-ancho chili sauce and horseradish potato gratin.

The only cooling aspect of Mesa Grill is the dessert. The assortment of sweets created by pastry chef Vicki Wells includes wild blueberry shortcake with lemon ice cream and blueberry basil syrup; coconut custard brulée tart with papaya apricot-tequila sorbet and mango blackberry compote; warm chocolate and dulce de leche cake with toasted pecan ice cream.

Appetizer, entrée and dessert dishes came to the table with brilliant color and modern design. The meticulous plate design of the simple barbeque dishes reminds guests that Mesa Grill is not an Outback or Chili's venue, but a special invitation to a Bobby Flay backyard barbeque.

Mesa Grill is open for lunch from 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday through Friday. Brunch is served from 10:30 a.m. to 3 p.m., Saturday and Sunday. Dinner is served from 5 to 11 p.m. daily. LW


Liberty Media, LLC. All Rights Reserved
Docent: Lewis Whitten