WINE
MODERNIZED - Serious wine drinkers should experience Brunello Di Montalcino
BY LINDSEY WHIPPLE

Lying under the Tuscan sun is one of Italy’s most underrated fine wines, Burnello Di Montalcino. Tuscany tends to lend its fame to Chianti. While Tuscany does produce fine Chianti, no Chianti can stand up to a mighty Brunello Di Montalcino. Brunello Di Montalcino is a strain of the Sangiovese grape called Sangiovese-grosso and Montalcino is the city in Tuscany were Brunello comes from.

There is controversy amongst wine makers all over Italy’s wine regions concerning modern style wine production verses old style wine making. Many wine makers in Italy are modernizing their wine production style to fit the palate of the world and to make more money. 

Modern style wines are typically full in body and have a potent, juicy flavor. The old school of thought toward Italian wine making is to reflect the terrior in the wine with high acidity. The Italians are always reinventing themselves, and it should not be surprising that this attitude is reflected in their wine making.

Villa A Tolli winery is a modern style Italian wine maker that produces a 1999 Brunello Di Montalcino that is garnet and sparkling red in the glass. It has an elegant bouquet of violets and roses. In the mouth, it has intense flavors of tart cherry, but unlike the old style of Italian wine making it lacks the earthiness in its finish. Instead the finish is creamy and coating.

La Fornace winery produces a classic 1999 Brunello Di Montalcino. This Brunello has an orange tint in the glass fading to ruby red. Its aroma is similar to a chocolate-covered liquor cherry. Its taste is funky and earthy with light dried cherry fruit. The finish leaves the drinker thinking, “I want more.” This Brunello is everything a Brunello should be.

Most Brunello producers also make a little sister to Brunello Di Montalcino called Rosso Di Montalcino. Rosso is a declassified version of the long-lived, more serious Brunello Di Montalcino. In other words, if you like Brunello di Montalcino, then you will love Rosso Di Montalcino.

Both Villa A Tolli and La Fornace produce Rosso’s. Both of these Rosso’s are milder and move modest than their big sisters, but when put next to each other, it is obvious they are related. If Brunello is out of the price range, always pick up the less expensive Rosso.

New school or old school, Brunello Di Montalcino needs to be enjoyed and experienced by serious wine drinkers, and become a leading fine wine of the world. LW 

DINING
MEMORABLE - The Geisha Steak House offers plenty of Hibachi cuisine — with a family twist
BY LINDSEY WHIPPLE

Located in the same Vegas strip mall off Desert Inn and Sandhill roads for the past 30 years, the Geisha Steak House has proved to be a Vegas local’s old pastime. I’ve yet to greet someone from Vegas who has not dined at the Geisha Steak House. In fact, I’ve been dining there since I was little girl with my parents.

The Geisha Steak House’s pagoda-like exterior trim is hard to miss when pulling into the dark townhouse center. Cars are always parked on the western side of the parking lot where the restaurant sits between the hours of 5 and 9:30 p.m., except sometimes on Mondays. The owners, the Frausto’s family, are known-NFL and Oakland Raiders fans.

The entry to the restaurant is small as is the dining room. Immediately walking through the large Buddha door, the six tepan tables are visible with guests joyously having fun. Geisha’s white brick walls are adorned with Japanese characters covering the walls, and if you’ve been dining at the Geisha Steak House as long as I, then you should remember when there were thousands of Polaroid pictures of guests covering the brick walls.

The Geisha Steak House’s tepan tables are like those of Benni Hannana’s or Hamada Grill, where the chef cooks right in front of you. Geisha Steak house is eclectic because the guests are local, and it is special to meet others who live and dwell in Vegas. It is also fun to dine with different people because the tepan tables at the Geisha Steak House seat up to 10.

The cuisine at Geisha Steak House is Hibachi Japanese. The most popular menu item on their limited menu is the Geisha Special, which includes hibachi shrimp, choice filet mignon, chicken and lobster accompanied with sides of mushrooms, bean sprouts and sesame zucchini. A choice of two appetizers, salad, soup, dessert and a carafe of hot Sake are also included with the special for a great price of $63. The rest of the menu is a la carte with the choices of hibachi filet mignon, chicken, shrimp, lobster, and some times scallops.

The chef’s production and ambiance is what makes the Geisha Steak House extra special. Each hibachi chef has his own tepan table, personality and flawless routine. Knives and fire are carelessly thrown about before amazed guests. It is interesting and original to see a chef in the front of the house entertaining guests.

The Geisha Steak is open daily from 5 to 9:30 p.m. at 3751 E. Desert Inn Road. Reservations are required. Call 702-451-9814. LW