UNPOLLUTED
Organic wines are not hard to find
BY LINDSEY WHIPPLE

Wouldn't it be lovely to taste a wine grown in an environment where the air, soil and water are fresh, rich and clean? There are wines all over the world that are grown in unpolluted environments, and they are not hard to find. The awareness of organic foods and beverages is prevalent today, due to the rise in interest of Earth's unfavorable pollution problems. Organic and bio-dynamic methods of agriculture promote the reduction of environmental problem issues such as soil depletion and erosion, water pollution, loss of biodiversity, resistance to pests, and chemical dependence are just a few.

What exactly is organic and bio-dynamic wine? Following, the recent creation by the USDA of a National Organic Program, an organic wine is defined as a wine made from organically grown grapes without added sulfites.

The public often relates organic wines with sulfite-free wines. This statement is incorrect because there is no such thing as a sulfite-free wine. Sulfites are a natural byproduct of the fermentation process.

According to Professor Roger Boulton, Ph.D. of the University of California at Davis, Department of Viticulture and Enology, even if no sulfur dioxide is added to wine, fermenting yeasts will produce SO2 from the naturally occurring inorganic sulfates in all grape juices. Thus, says Boulton, it is impossible for any wine to be completely free of sulfur dioxide.

Bio-dynamic agriculture, on the other hand, is an extreme version of organic farming created by Austrian anthroposophist Rudolf Steiner in the late 19th century. Biodynamic farms and wineries strive to be a self-sustaining, wholistic organism within the surrounding ecosystem. Great importance is placed on the position of the moon, planets and stars, and their relative positions in bio-dynamic agriculture such as when a producer will prune the vines. The worldwide Demeter organization certifies Bio-dynamic farms, but some wineries are just not certified.

The world's most successful and oldest bio-dynamic wineries reside in France: Domaine Leroy and Leflaive in Burgundy, Domaine Zind Humbrecht in Alsace, Chateau de la Roche-aux-Moines in the Loire Valley, and Maison Chapoutier in the Rhone Valley.

Since organic and bio-dynamic wines do exist, then naturally the vegan question will arise. Yes, there are vegan wines available. Both organic and non-organic winemakers frequently use animal products during production to "clear" or "fine" the wine to keep it from turning cloudy. 

The fining process is used to remove unwanted tastes and flavors in wine. For a wine to be classified as vegan, there cannot be any animal-derived products used in the fining process. Vegan wines can be found on sites such as www.theorganicwinecompany.com. 

Inspired by success of the famous French wineries, California and Oregon vineyards have embraced the bio-dynamic and organic farming methods. One is Frey Vineyards, which has been Demeter-certified since 1996. Frey Vineyards is the United States' oldest and largest fully organic and bio-dynamic winery located in the Redwood Valley. Frey's 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon is a graceful balance of deep cassis flavors with hints of mint. The aroma also reflects dark fruits and mint. Frey also offers many other varieties of wine such as a Gewurztraminer, Chardonnay, Zinfandel, Petite Sirah and Syrah.

Another determined Demeter-certified winery in Sonoma, California, is Benziger Family Winery. According to Robert Parker, Benziger's 2002 Tribute Proprietary Red is a great follow-up to their breakthrough effort in 2001. From the same bio-dynamically-run vineyard, this effort reveals exuberant, extroverted notes of creme de cassis, graphite, smoke and earth. Full-bodied and opulently-textured, with loads of concentration, this is a brilliant red to drink young or cellar for 10 to 15 years. Robert Parker gave the Benziger's 2002 Tribute Proprietary Red a 93 point score. Benzinger Family Winery offers an array of different wines.

Certified Organic by Oregon Tilth, Inc., Brick House in Willamette Valley, Oregon, is also a leading organic and bio-dynamic winery in the United States. Brick House's 2001 Pinot Noir has cherry, strawberry and cinnamon-pepper flavors that shine through the fine texture as they extend to a long, impressive finish. Brick House's 2003 Gamay Noir is exceptionally opulent with a flavor that boasts rich, black fruit laden with licorice, fern root and anise.

Organic and biodynamic wineries are becoming more prevalent in a time where the Earth's pollution problems are at a high. It is beneficial that wine growers are becoming more aware of the Earth's current state, as well as, the better health of its residents. It offers peace of mind to open a bottle of wine and know it makes a positive impact on the environment. LW