VINTAGE COLLECTION
Purchase three port wines - one to uncork in 10 years, another in 20 and a third in 30
BY LINDSEY WHIPPLE

The heavens blessed Portugal's Douro Valley, the vineyard site in Portugal for port, with an exceptional summer growing season in 2003. The summer of 2003 scorched most European vineyards, but the heat was not unwarranted in Portugal. The 2003 vintage port is being compared by producers and wine coinsures as great as the legendary 1994 vintage port year.

The most expensive style of port from Portugal is vintage port. Vintage port is singled out from other Portuguese port styles by the quality of grapes that the port is made from. Only grapes, grown in the best vineyards, harvested at optimum ripeness, usually after an outstanding summer, are made into vintage port. Over 80 different types of grapes are authorized for port production, but the most commonly used varietals are blends of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Barroca, Touriga Francesa, Tinta Roriz and Tinta Cao.

Vintage port by law spends two to three years in wood, and then it is blended and bottled. Next, the port is sold to the consumer, who is responsible for the proper 10 to 30 years of aging of the opulent port style. Today, vintage port is consumed much earlier, about 10 years after bottling, due to the port's younger market and the overall impatient consumer.

What makes vintage port exceptionally particular is the fact that vintage port is declared according to the IVP (Instituto do Vinho do Porto) or Portuguese Wine Institute, but the IVP will only declare a vintage if it is felt that the market can handle it.

Currently, the market isn't expected to handle another vintage port so soon after the declaration of 2000. Since the 2003 summer was outstanding, the IVP could not pass it up; therefore, the grapes were deliberately selected more meticulously, and the 2003 vintage port production was limited. The prices of vintage port are set similar to that of the 2000 vintage, with most bottles selling for $50 to $95.

The IVP samples proposed quantities of port in the second year after the harvest form the quintas. Most quality vintage port comes from well-established quintas. A quinta is a wine producing estate or vineyard in Portugal. Vintage declarations have been irregular, but about three vintages a decade are declared.

According to Wine Spectator, Portugal's top quintas received exceptional point scores. They are the following: Noval Nacional (99 points) and their Noval (96), Quinta do Roriz (97), Croft (96) and Fonseca (96). The 2003 vintage ports are powerful and rich, but also show wonderful balance, a quality they have in common with the 1994 vintage.

Taylor Fladgate, owner of the prestigious property Quinta de Vargellas, produced a full-bodied, velvety-soft tannic 2003 vintage port. This vintage port has pretty floral aromas with a deep dark current taste. This vintage port would be best after 2014. More than 13,000 cases of their vintage were made.

The famous port house, Dow, known for their always outstanding vintage port made a full-bodied 2003 vintage port with an overt nice sweetness. Dow's vintage 2003 port has a distinctive blackberry taste with hints of anisette. The aroma reflects the port's sweetness. This port should be enjoyed after 2012. Only 8,500 cases of this vintage were made by Dow.

Founded in 1815 by Robert Cockburn, who married Mary Duff, a lady admired by Lord Byron, the Cockburn port house is known for their consistent and delightful ruby and vintage ports. Their vintage 2003 port has an unripe fruit nose complemented with coffee mocha hints. This vintage port is full-bodied with mild sweetness and chewy tannins. Cockburn's vintage 2003 port will be best after 2012. More than 2,000 cases of this vintage were made.

Older experts believe vintage port is not a wise investment because vintage port must sit in the cellar for up to 30 years collecting dust. It is obvious today that this statement is untrue. Vintage port is excellent to drink and enjoy after 10 years. It is interesting to study how the vintage port will mature in the next 10 to 20 years. With this said, I recommend buying three: one to be opened at 10 years, 20 years and finally at 30 years. LW