TO BE FRANC
California Family Winemakers have established Cabernet Franc as a wine that can be drank everyday
BY LINDSEY WHIPPLE
It's time to speak more frankly about Cabernet Franc. Cabernet Franc is a grape varietal native of and flourishing on the right and left banks of the Gironde River in Bordeaux and the Loire Valley in France. Currently, Cabernet Franc is establishing itself as a strong single varietal wine in California's Napa Valley.
Cabernet Franc, which is not related to Cabernet Sauvignon, is the white grape Sauvignon Blanc that is typically light-to-medium bodied, producing fragrant aromas and overt fruit in the mouth. Cabernet Franc also displays distinctive herbaceous notes much like an unripe Cabernet Sauvignon, and a definite graphite characteristic found in Merlot.
Cabernet Franc is recognized for its blending capabilities in Bordeaux. It's most notable for being one of the primary varietals of blending on the right bank of Bordeaux. Cheval Blanc - 66 percent Cabernet Franc, 33 percent Merlot and 1 percent - Malbec, is a much sought after Grand Cru Classe, a wine of St. Emillion on the world futures market. The Cabernet Franc in Cheval Blanc displays to the world how Cabernet Franc is able to be great ager, and not be overshadowed by Cabernet Sauvignon as a primary blending varietal in Bordeaux.
Another great wine of Bordeaux also from St. Emillion, which has a significant amount of Cabernet Franc, is Chateau Angelus which is a Grand Cru Classe B containing 50 percent Merlot, 47 percent Cabernet Franc, and 3 percent Cabernet Sauvignon.
Planted in the 1960s but did not get much use until the '80s in California's Napa Valley, Cabernet Franc has been used primarily as a blending grape in their meritage blends like Bordeaux. Little Cabernet Franc has been made into a single varietal wine in California until the early 1990s. Now, it is becoming a player as one of California's finer single varietal wines.
I had the privilege of attending the 2006 California Family Winemakers' Tasting held in Pasadena, Calif. on March 21 where over a 100 wineries from all over California poured their current releases. Most of the wineries there had excellent Cabernet Franc.
The 2003 Pride Mountain Sonoma County Cabernet Franc was my favorite Cabernet Franc of the tasting. The Pride Mountain Cabernet Franc is aged in all French Oak and fermented in stainless steel and shows deep Boyseen Berry and dark fruits with distinctive hints of graphite on the palate and the nose. The Pride Mountain Cabernet Franc was medium in body and had a delightfully spicy finish. This particular Cabernet Franc is blended with 25 percent Merlot. I feel the Merlot complements the Pride Mountain Cabernet Franc's graphite characteristics. It almost mimics the taste of the great Cheval Blanc.
Robert Sinkey Winery, whom is well-known for his well balanced Pinot Noirs, also makes a great Cabernet Franc. Robert Sinkey's 2001 Los Carneros Cabernet Franc is a big bold wine with jammy black fruits on the aroma and palate, complemented with nuances of olives and earth. The finish was smooth and silky with vanilla after taste left in the mouth. This particular Cabernet Franc is more representative of a Californian Cabernet Franc styles.
Viader Winery, located on Howell Mountain in Napa Valley, produces a wonderful Cabernet Franc from their line of wines called Dare, a part of Viader. The Dare 2003 100 percent Cabernet Franc is a blend of estate fruit and selected blocks coming from the Stagecoach Vineyards in the Oakville, Napa Valley. The Dare Cabernet Franc is a limited production Cabernet Franc of 1,000 cases.
Unfortunately, I missed Viader's table at the tasting. Fortunately, I sat near Alan Viader, Viader's Vineyard Manager, at the dinner later on that evening at Pasadena's acclaimed Art Deco-inspired Bistro 45. I was able to taste their rare Cabernet Franc, which I was totally unaware of. The 2003 Dare Cabernet Franc's rich texture of cassis fruits and spicy green pepper characteristics matched perfectly with our fourth course of Dry Aged Prime Angus New York Steak with a herb Demi and spring veggies.
The other style of Cabernet Franc - which was not represented at the Family Winemaker's Tasting, but should not be forgotten - is the lighter one coming from Loire Valley, France. Cabernet Franc from Lorie Valley regions of Chinon and Samur-Champigny are flirty and spicy light wines much like a rustic Pinot Noir that are perfect for everyday drinking. California wine makers are just starting to imitate this style of Cabernet Franc.
The first and only winemaker producing Lorie Valley-style Cabernet Franc is Lang & Reed Wine Company. Lang & Reed was founded by John and Tracey Skupny with the objective of exploring the charms and versatility of Cabernet Franc. They make several Cabernet Franc wines from different vineyards sites around Napa Valley.
The 2003 Lang & Reed Cabernet Franc Napa Valley is the Cabernet Franc that is the best representation of Loire Valley Cabernet Franc. It is light in body with a brilliant ruby color. The finish is light and spicy as well.
After I left Pasadena that night, it can be certain that the California Family Winemakers have established Cabernet Franc as a serious fine wine, and a wine that can be drank everyday. LW
