YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR
I'd rather drink water than choke down discount wine
BY AARON CLEMENS

Do you think that wine price and quality are related? I do. After a recent blind tasting of five different cabernet and cabernet-dominated varietal wines, I would rather drink water than choke down discount vino. I may now be a wine snob.

My transformation has been gradual. I am not an oenophile like those featured in Sideways. I did "Take a Sip for Scholarship" at UNLVino, Las Vegas' largest and longest-running wine festival, during college. But, since I skipped UNLV's wine-appreciation classes and tours, I remained unenlightened.

My wine education's golden era occurred after UNLV, during law school at Georgetown. Two roommates in particular schooled me with the help of a fancy wine book and wine diary. We shared wine in high-quality wine glasses. I learned that the typical thick-rimmed glasses eliminate the otherwise subtle flavors and aromas that fine, thin crystal can accentuate. And it was through my friends that I found that a true wine experience requires quality fruit and cheese to compliment a good wine.

Moving to the more recent past, as I sat down to this blind tasting, the table was set. The food included baskets of freshly baked bread, a variety of quality cheeses and crackers, and a wide selection of fresh fruit. My expectations were high. I knew I was in for a treat.

No spit buckets were involved. Careful to sip gently, I went from glass number one to glass number five, comparing and contrasting the wines. I did not allow the alcohol to dull my palate.

Glass one had a good color, a bouquet of cherry. The taste was soft and fruity with a slight pucker. The finish was great. It was Concha y Toro 2002 Don Melchor - Wine Spectator score of 92 points and $35 to $45 retail.

Glass two held its color evenly and had a fruity bouquet with a hint of truffle and oak. Silkier than the previous wine, the finish was more subtle. It was a Château Margaux 2002 - Robert Parker score of 93 points and Wine Spectator score of 92 points with a $200 retail.

Glass three had the darkest color. I found the bouquet with a hint of pepper. It tasted familiar and the finish was explosive. It was a Henry Drive 2002 Padthaway - Robert Parker score of 92 points and a $40 to $45 retail.

Glass four had the clearest color. The bouquet was not as bright as the others. The taste was sweet, with a definite and unpleasant sour finish. It was a Dynamite Vineyards 2002 Cabernet - Wine Spectator score of 87 points with a $15 retail.

Finally, glass five had the best color. The bouquet was pleasant and fruity, with a hint of chocolate. The taste was mellow. The finish was long and even. It was a Joseph Phelps 2002 Insignia - Robert Parker and Wine Spectator scores of 96 points, Wine of the Year Award of 2005 from Wine Spectator with a $150 retail.

Before knowing the type or price of these selected wines, I ranked them on a scale of one to 10, one being worst. The third glass, the Australian wine, scored highest with 10. I had often enjoyed Australian wine before. My appreciation of the Padthaway must have stemmed from the expected flavor due to my familiarity with the wine.

In a close second, the Insignia scored nine. It was by far the smoothest wine. On the first few sips, I appreciated the kick of the Padthaway more than the nuances of the Insignia. 

Third, I scored the Margaux with an eight. This was also close because it had a silky finish, but I slightly appreciated the Insignia and its subtlety to the mellow fruitiness of the Margaux.

Fourth, I scored the Melchor a seven. It had a great finish, was soft, but didn't quite match up to the rest in my mind. Bringing up the rear was the least expensive Dynamite. This was by far a drinkable wine, but the sour taste, which signified a higher sugar and alcohol content, was a definite turn-off compared to far smoother others. 

Without these other wines to compare, I may have had this at dinner and not noticed the differences. But by cleansing the palate while moving between the wines, this one clearly clarified the difference between $200 higher quality wine and less quality wine. 

After the wines were revealed, I continued my sampling. I found myself much closer to finishing the glasses of higher quality wine. My determination has since been sealed.

I just tried some Fetzer 2004 Valley Oaks, also a Cabernet Sauvignon, retail $7 to $9. The similarity to the Dynamite, and its flaws, was sadly far too obvious for me to enjoy. Alas, I can no longer enjoy wines that score under 90 points. LW