The small businessman is the lifeblood of a nation's economy. Without the dreams of little guys struggling to carve out their own individual paths toward prosperity great and small, a country is left with nothing but a wasteland of corporate hegemony (think McDonald's) and government-regulated rubbish (think school lunches). That's why, when a small business does find success, it should be noted, even celebrated. Otto's Malt Shop across from UNLV is such a business.
Otto's is a quirky little diner with retro-pop culture touches. A flat-screen TV plays Japanese giant-monster movies. The menu boasts items like Atomic Pollo Melt (spicy chicken, jack cheese and bell peppers on sourdough bread; $5), the Astro (a spicy burger with sweet chili sauce, jack cheese and sautéed onions; $4.25) and Spaceman Tom (a baked potato loaded with blue cheese, bacon and sautéed mushrooms and onion; $3.50). And it's all presented with a campy, kitschy and creative flair.
The diner is the brainchild of reformed Hollywood actors Dave "Otto" Miller and his multi-talented wife Ruthie. Otto and Ruthie moved to Las Vegas three years ago, opening several local eateries for other people. However, they soon grew tired of working for others, and when the opportunity came to rent a space in the university district, they took a chance. Otto's Malt Shop opened a year ago, and has already made quite a splash in the scene with Las Vegas CityLife readers recently voting the diner Best Cheap Eats, Best Non-Chain Restaurant and (curiously) Best Place to Take a Date When You Really Want to Get Laid. (Clearly, a burger and malt are it all takes for liberals to secure some action.) The praise doesn't ring hollow; Otto's is the perfect spot for a yummy lowbrow meal.
The burgers are baked, which puts off only those few palates that don't care for meatloaf. Indeed, the patties are infused with just the right blend of eggs, breadcrumbs, milk and spices. Martha Stewart would be proud - not that she would be caught dead in a funky nook like this, of course. Moreover, the aforementioned Astro is out of sight, while the Ottobahn (a spicy burger with cheddar, swiss, jack, cream cheese, bacon and a fried egg on top, $6) will shoot your taste buds into orbit even as it heightens your cholesterol.
For those watching their girlish (and boyish) figures, the salads are superb and always fresh. The Mandarin Chicken Salad (marinated chicken with mandarin oranges, veggies, jack cheese and balsamic vinaigrette; $6) is never a soggy mess like it is at other fern bars. The Tuna Salad ($6), too, is crisp and leaves behind no fishy aftertaste. The spuds and melts are each notable and worth trying at least once.
But it's in the genuine handcrafted malts that Otto's really shines. The standard flavors - chocolate, vanilla, strawberry - never fail, and the less-conventional recipes for peanut butter, espresso and mocha chip are available for the adventurous. They're so good you'll want to hit a sock hop and maybe a drive-in flick after your meal. Plus, these malts are ideal for the lactose intolerant.
Otto's also offers daily lunch specials, Ruthie's blue-plate specials, UNLV student discounts, vegetarian options, catering and free Wi-Fi. On Thursday nights, the local poetry crowd descends, filling the shop with lyrical passion. Yes, Otto's pop-culture cuisine and cozy atmosphere almost make it worth living in Las Vegas. Otto and Ruthie are a young couple looking to do something different yet plenty tasty, and they've made it happen by going the old-fashioned, retro route.
Otto's Malt Shop is located at 4440 S. Maryland Parkway across from UNLV. For more info, call 702-796-OTTO or visit
www.ottosmaltshop.com. LW
