For all world-class eateries this town now boasts, it's still difficult - at least for this foodie - to locate a great hot dog. Before you mention Pink's in the Aladdin, please understand that the Vegas Pink's is not a restaurant or even a hot dog stand. Instead, they merely serve Pink's dogs inside the Aladdin. That's wonderful, of course, but it's still a place for tourists, not for the rest of us looking for something real and affordable. For that, we go downtown.
The Las Vegas Downtown Arts District continues to expand, with a number of galleries and shops opening in the Holsum Lofts building on Charleston Boulevard. The building's history stretches back to 1954, when the owners of Gail's Bakery needed a new facility. Since then, the building has always housed some kind of bakery, until U.S. Food Service closed it down in 2002. For two years, the building remained vacant before LaPour Partners bought the facility, transforming it into a number of commercial properties, with the idea of offering an urban environment that blends classic Vegas with a more contemporary aesthetic.
So far, it's been a success, as small businesses and galleries continue to pop up there. In 2004, one of the earliest arrivals was the Grill on Charleston, where the hot dogs, burgers and salads are the freshest and tastiest in town. In fact, if you don't show up in time for lunch, you might as well forget about wrapping your taste buds around a Classic Burger ($6.50), made from 100 percent lean ground beef and served on a Ciabatta roll with green lettuce, tomatoes and red onion. They're gone by late afternoon, because the Grill acquires its fresh ingredients daily. Nothing sits frozen or infinitely refrigerated.
Everything is made from scratch here, too; there are no prepackaged items (except for the pickles and soft drinks). The salad is cut up right before your eyes. The burger patties and hot dogs are grilled before you. The pizza is fashioned and baked as if you were simply hanging out in some Italian kitchen in New Jersey - which, in a way, you are.
That's because the owner, Eugene Keslowe, is from Jersey, and it shows in the way he prepares an Italian hot dog ($4.85). It comes loaded with peppers, onions, potatoes and mustard on a pizza bread bun. Yes, I said potatoes and pizza bread. And the wiener is all kinds of deep-fried delicious. It's a straight-up, old-school Italian dog, and you'll never settle for anything less again.
The specialty sandwiches have quirky names like Joey Buckets (prosciutto and mozzarella with roasted peppers, sundried tomato and balsamic vinegar on Focottia bread, $7.25) and the Bibster (Genoa salami, hot ham, spicy salami, provolone, lettuce, tomato, balsamic vinaigrette on an Italian roll, $7.25). The cuts of meat are so fine that you won't suffer the salty aftertaste that's usually associated with second-rate product.
If you're looking to steer clear from calories, the salads here are triumphant. The Turkey Club ($6.95), for instance, comes with roasted turkey breast, spinach, sundried tomatoes, bacon and cherry tomatoes with honey French vinaigrette. (There are also meatless or vegetarian options for those who feel sensitive about such things.)
Closing everyday at 3 p.m., the Grill at Charleston is the perfect lunch spot for business or pleasure; you can catch dinner here only on First Fridays. And if you're looking to fill out that St. Nick outfit for the kids, why not try a taste of Jersey during the holidays?
The Grill on Charleston is located in the Holsum Lofts building at 241 W. Charleston Blvd. For more info, call 702-380-1110. LW
