MEDITERRANEAN MIRACLES
Little things at Paymon�s guarantee a great experience
BY Jarret Keene

Paymon�s Mediterranean Caf� on Maryland Parkway near UNLV has long been the place to be seen. Journalists, professors and artists gather there for a lunch on such a consistent basis that I have sworn never to return � mainly because of the journalists, since they tend to drastically lower intellectual property values. But return I do, because Paymon�s does everything right on a highly consistent basis.

First, the service is tremendous. Perhaps your experiences differ, but I have never had a conversation interrupted in that rude way many waiters in this town insist on: �Have you had a chance to look at the menu?� they barge in. �No, we�ve been a little busy conversing but thank for reminding us that we�re only here to stuff our faces.� Seriously, though, it takes very little time between ordering a drink, receiving a drink and placing an order, and it has to do with the staff.

Speaking of drinks, the iced tea comes in a big tumbler with the perfect amount of ice, a slice of orange and a sprig of mint ($2.50). Little touches like this make Paymon�s not only the best Mediterranean restaurant in Vegas, but one of the best off-Strip eateries period.

Oh, then the apps! The flaming saganaki (or Greek kefalotyri cheese ignited courtesy of a little rum, we imagine; $8.95) is a showstopper visually (another small but deal-sealing touch), and is served with pita bread. The baba ganosh dip (side $5.25, full $6.95) is truly out of sight, as is the hummus � however, we must dissuade you from the falafel for the simple reason that it�s a bit too dry for our taste. Otherwise, everything else, from the dolmas (grape leave stuffed with ground beef, $7.95) to the yogurt-cucumber are worth sampling, especially if you�re a big table of hungry diners. You can�t really go wrong here. If you�re still hesitant, just order the Athens fries ($2.25); they are mind-blowing.

Salads are best at lunch, but anytime is ideal for the gyros salad ($9.75), a bed of Romaine lettuce packed with gyros meat, fresh vegetables and dressing and tzatziki sauce. If you insist on going meatless, the Caesar, Greek and Bruschette salads ($8.25-$8.95) make for great summer meals unto themselves. Or you can split one before digging into an entr�e.

Here�s where Paymon�s really shines. May we recommend the broiled ground beef kabob ($13.95), or Angus beef marinated with onions and spices and broiled with a grilled tomato and roasted pepper and served with basmati rice. Or try the always-fresh grilled salmon, served with Mediterranean vegetables and vermicelli pilaf. Better yet, indulge in something called Spanakoptia (spinach pie, $12.95), with onions and feta cheese and flaky crust to die for. Actually, you can�t go wrong with any of the entrees, and though we haven�t yet explored the broiled fish kabob tandoori ($15.95), the food at Paymon�s is so uniformly excellent, we aren�t afraid of a fish dish.

Not a big fan of Mediterranean desserts, but if you like Greek rice pudding ($3.95) and Spumoni cheesecake ($5.75), you should do fine. There are plenty of excellent hot teas (pre- and post-meal) available, and the hookah lounge next door is usually a blast on the weekend. Paymon�s also offers party trays and a takeout menu, which come in handy when you�re planning to entertain friends and family at the house. Affordable, awesome, with two locations in Las Vegas (the second is on Sahara between Cimmaron and Durango, and we hear it�s excellent), Paymon�s can�t be beat as far as Mediterranean cuisine is concerned.

For more information on Paymon�s, including hours and reservations, call 731-6030.