AFTER-DINNER CELEBRATION
Tucked 40 miles into Colorado, Grand Valley offers unexpectedly good post-meal wines
BY MIKE ZIGLER

Skiing, hiking, summits and snowmobiling. Colorado captures the imagination of any outdoor enthusiast. Whether a road-trip adventure or firsthand extreme sporting, all thrill-seekers can get their kicks within the state established in 1876.

With laidback residents (many of whom support a cap on state-spending), the Centennial State is home to good company for the few Americans interested in the finer things in life � less government involvement, freedom on the slopes and hedonistic pleasures such as wine tasting.

I took advantage of an early summer opportunity that involved a Denver wedding and five days away from work to enjoy the Colorado countryside. Cruise-conrolling toward Utah, my girlfriend and I were approaching vacant territory, with essentially one stop before re-entering the desolate wing of Mormon country � Grand Junction. 

The pass-through city, referred by Coloradans as �GJ,� isn�t much to discuss. Several prior visits predetermined my intent to fancy it as a simple gas stop and nothing more. But prior to approaching the city limits, I took note of a rare-to-find local establishment labeled on a federally funded exit-information sign in Clifton � Graystone Vineyards.

Grand Valley serves as home of Colorado�s resurgent wine industry with more than a dozen wineries � makeshift as they may be. Known for its fruit-producing climate and soil, new vineyards are being planted everywhere in the valley as warm summer temperatures and cool nights throughout the growing season provide ideal conditions for maturity and balance.

But Grand Valley is no Napa. It�s not even Temecula. The mountain-meets-desert-air region offers few pinots, merlots or chardonnays worthy of consumption, let alone purchase. However, I discovered a couple recommendations for your sweet tooth.

At Garfield Estates, the Vin De Glace serves as a promising specialty for guests during that after-dinner dessert. While only sold in half bottles at $26 each, this sweet, liquid candy is a must for those who fancy a taste complementing berries and chocolate. The wine is made from 100-percent Muscat Ottonal grape in an ultra-ripe late harvest style. 

Vin De Glace is produced similar to ice wine � left on the vines until the first deep frost, and the freeze/thaw cycles concentrate both the sugars and flavors of the grapes. (The process was refined, and now ice wines are highly prized drinks primarily created in Germany, Austria and Canada.) This selection�s subtle hints of ripe fruit make it ideal for an after-dinner wine.

The other post-dinner prize was Graystone Vineyards� Port II. Unlike ice wine, port is heavy in body and alcohol content (19 percent versus 9).

Hidden along Grand Valley�s eastern border, Graystone is one of Colorado wine country�s newest additions. Founded in 2001 and specializing in port, this small boutique-style winery rests in the middle of the vineyards� 25-acre estate and has received recognition around the country since bottling its first wine in September 2002. Its two ports have received awards in every competition entered both nationally and internationally.

At about $20 for a half bottle, the Port II goes well with all types of chocolate, strawberries and even on its own. A sipping wine with a not-so-syrupy taste (like most ports), Port II is ideal for the true wine lover�s complete collection. 

While Denver is no hop, skip and jump away from Nevada, should you ever find yourself passing through Grand Valley, feel free to spend part of your day discovering the dozen-plus wineries in this corner of the Centennial State. Just be prepared to endure a solid dose of chocolate appetizers.