RED AND WHITE WITH ENVY
Liberty Watch breaks for a couple low-key glasses of wine at Envy The Steakhouse, despite no company
BY DAVID HIMMEL

By mid afternoon, I was tuckered out after spending most of the morning moving heavy couches to my friend Krista's new home. Not one to complain, we had a nice time sweating in the early Vegas sun and since I don't go to the gym, I relished the workout. 

After the productive day, I resigned myself to enjoy a few glasses of wine and take in the scenery. Despite bargaining efforts, I could not convince Krista to blow off a few girlfriends and join me. Left to my own judgment, I remembered driving past it a few dozen times, but had never visited Envy The Steakhouse. In fact, I didn't know anyone who'd been there. It's in the Renaissance Hotel on Paradise and Desert Inn roads.

It looked like a classy joint where I could dive into a few glasses of decent wine. But upon arrival, I was surprised the bar was rather empty. Here it was Saturday night, and I was the only person saddling up on the stools. It was a welcoming bar - perfect for my purpose. It was just the right height for a proper bar slouch and even had a padded edge for my elbows. 

I told the bartender, Paul, that I was in the mood for something red, but had no particular taste in mind. 

"Do you like a dry red wine?" he asked me.

"Well, sure I do, Paul, but you go ahead and serve me your favorite. It's bartender's choice."

"Edmeades it is then," he said grabbing the wine menu and turning to the wine rack seemingly flattered.

Bless him for being honest with me. He could have up-sold me to the $15 glass yet instead, showed me a bottle of 2004 Edmeades Zinfandel from the Mendocino County in California ($10 per glass). I gave it a whiff, took a sip and agreed before he poured the rest of the glass. It was a deep glass and Paul was hardly stingy. Had he not been the bar supervisor, he may have been reprimanded for his willing wrist. 

The Edmeades was dry and its aftertaste left a tingle on my tongue and teeth. It had some weight to it, but also a mildly sweet taste. 

While a few people had come in, the mostly empty bar was a result of Envy being in a business hotel. Those hanging around were conventioneers still wearing goofy badges around their neck. Unless they were in the laminate or lanyard business and they were wearing their products as a sales measure, I saw no reason for it. I mean, lighten up, it was Saturday night.

Above the bar were three TVs and there was a Denny's sponsored Professional Bowler's Association competition on. Rarely one to watch bowling, or any sport for that matter, by the end of my glass of Edmeades, I was rooting for the skinny guy in the red shirt.

A little more than a year ago, I was in Australia and drank some delicious wines, so when I saw a Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand, I wanted to give it go and see how those lands down south compared. Paul poured me another deep glass of 2005 Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough, New Zealand ($10 per glass). Like most white wines, it was fruitier and sweeter than the red. I almost tasted a bit of the barrel it was aged in - that woodsy taste. It left a clean taste in my mouth and went down quick and easy. 

And wouldn't you know it, half way through the glass, the skinny fella in the red shirt had won the bowling competition.

I did notice that the Kiwi wine had a screw-top bottle - a feature fairly common on the Aussie wines I drank a year ago. I'd only ever seen that before on Boone's Farm and Mad Dog 20/20 bottles, which are in a filthy league of their own.

Paul had gone on break, so I didn't get to ask him about this southern hemisphere technique. I will get to the bottom of it, though. And if that means getting to the bottom of a few screw-top bottles of wine, so be it. 

Maybe I'll bring a screw-top bottle to Krista's house-warming party. I just hope no one spills on the couches. LW